Wednesday, April 18, 2007

PILGRIMAGE through Israel - Part 1

APRIL 3 - TUESDAY OF THE HOLY WEEK

On my own, I went to Bethlehem to begin my pilgrimage in Israel. I had arrived on Monday from Germany. From the airport; I proceeded to Ecce Homo, the center of the Sion Sisters inside the Old City of Jerusalem. I thought that it was fitting that the first site I would visit was Bethlehem. I was able to find the public mini-bus that went to Bethlehem (No. 4). It had to pass through the checkpoint which is the demarkation or Separation Wall dividing Jerusalem between the Israel and Palestine sections. It was my first introduction to this sad reality of Israel especially as seen from the Palestinian perspective.


This is the crypt at the basement of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. When I went there; the crypt was still empty. There was someone who was getting ready for the celebration of the Eucharist.
The spot where one can see the star symbol on the floor and with the hanging votive lights is where the manger was or where Jesus was born.

Eventually, the priest and those who act as servers arrived at the crypt for the liturgical celebration. There were about 15 of us pilgrims who were allowed to join the service. There was much singing throughout the service, sometimes the main celebrant singing solo, sometimes the whole group singing together. But there was hardly any community singing as the rest of us did not know the songs, even the language that was used.














































After the service, other pilgrims were allowed to enter the crypt to view the site of the Nativity. As the space was limited only 15 people at a time could enter the crypt. One is touched by the emotional response of the pilgrims when they are inside the crypt.
Outside, on the floor above there are very beautiful icons, mainly of the Madonna and Child. The time I was there, a mixed group of pilgrims were around. There were those who came from Poland and Serbia, as well as from various countries of Europe. There was also a group of local Palestinian students (all girls) brought by their teacher to this shrine. All wore veils to cover their heads and were very disciplined inside the church. As the number of people increased, it was difficult to traffic the groups going in and out of the crypt. I was glad I came early and had time to just sit tere in the crypt to pray and to attend the liturgy.













The group of Palestinian (Muslim) students listened to the orientation of their teachers as they began their visit to the shrine of the Nativity. Note how simple the inside of the church was. Except for hanging votivelights and the mosaic pieces on the walls, there was little of the baroque sights of most churches and shrines in Jerusalem.





At the main altar, however, one sees the usual Greek Orthodox baroque-type of decorations with a lot of votive lights and icons.













On the side of the main shrine of the Nativity is the Franciscan holy shrines. One immediately notices the major difference between the sites under the management of the Greek Orthodox and those under the Franciscans. The latter - possibly given their vow of poverty and a more intense community life - are much better maintained and these sites tend towards the minimalist perspective rather than the baroque.







An image of the Resurrection inside the church beside the main shrine of the Nativity.











Outside the churches in Bethlehem one can view the valley below and see the settlements that have sprouted through the years since the time of Christ´s birth.























Outside the shrines, the main square is the site for pilgrims to listen to the orientation talks of their guides. The square also connects the holy site with the `secular´ sections of Bethlehem.
The ´little town of Bethlehem´ is no longer little as a city has arisen through the years. With the pilgrims and tourists, the town is really a bustling city during the season of pilgrimage.






















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